Editor's choice: Fish out of water

Julia Child taught me that if fish tastes fishy, you shouldn't buy it.

Well, my grandma taught me that. But Julia Child taught her.

And I would have expected to hold cultivated fish to that same standard: If it stinks, don't buy it.

But it turns out, cultivated seafood doesn't inherently have the same qualities as conventional seafood.

"Flavor isn’t simply an expression of DNA, a realization of…